Venice - Grand Canal - Palaces, Churches, Museums

Day 9 & 10 - Grand Canal Cruise

The Parlor of Venice

"Venice is like eating a box of chocolates in one go." Truman Capote

If the buildings along the Grand Canal were pieces of candy, it would be hard to pick a favorite.

Here are a few to watch for as we take the Grand Canal cruise.

Early on, the Grand Canal was the port of arrival. Trading ships sailed right up to the Rialto Bridge to unload their spices, furs and other goods. Another way for merchants to receive goods was to build a fondaco. These buildings were designed with a warehouse on the water's edge for easy unloading of goods. The second floor was the market for selling the goods. The top floor had lodging. The fondaco above, Ca' da Mosta, is one of the oldest. It is now empty due to high water.

Above is Fondaco Dei Turchi, or Turk's Inn for the Turkish merchants who ran it. It is another of the first warehouses to be founded in Venice. The two towers are later additions.

As time went by, the port shifted to a new location and the Grand Canal became very grand! The old Byzantine style of houses along the canal were replaced by prestigious palaces or "ca" for casa. The noble families wanted to show off their wealth and importance, but there was an unwritten rule that they followed. No one built their palace further out into the canal or more lavish in architectural decor than their neighbor. That tradition is what gives a uniformity of style along the canal.

Ca'd'Oro, built 1424, got its name for the gilding which once decorated the facade.

Ca'Dario - Henry James said this tilting palazzo looked like a house of cards ready to collapse at any minute. It's considered one of the prettiest and most expensive because of its marble inlays.

Join Rick Steves as he tours a Grand Canal palace.

https://youtu.be/eI-YKEYI8zk

Dogana da Mar

Where the Grand Canal spills out into San Marco Lagoon, across from San Marco Square, is a building shaped like a ship's bow. Named Dogana da Mar, it is the maritime customs office. At one time this was one of Europe's busiest ports. The watchtower is topped by a golden globe symbolizing planet Earth supported by two atlas figures. Above is a statue representing Fortune. Standing on one foot, she is free to turn with the wind - "as changeable as human destinies at the mercy of the sea."

A few steps down from Dogana da Mar is one of Venice's most beautiful churches.

St. Maria della Salute

In 1630, with a terrible plague raging in Venice, the Senate made a vow to erect a church dedicated to

the Madonna whenever the plague ended. Consecrated in 1687, it was nicknamed "The Wedding Cake" for the massive ring of spiral volutes topped by statues. The interior holds an impressive collection of art. If you visit (admission is free), be sure to look back across the basin for great views of San Marco Square. A visit might be the perfect time to try crossing the canal in a traghetto - a large gondola oared by two oarsmen for a quick and cheap crossing of the canal.

Two other churches to watch for along the canal:

Santa Maria degli Scalzi

It is located by the Scalzi Bridge - the bridge of the poor barefoot monks. One of Venice's finest Baroque churches, it was paid for by a compassionate count.